Hard Water âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Minerals that lessen the ability of the shampoo to lather
Purified water/Deionized water âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Main ingredient in shampoo
Surfactant âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€has two ends the HYDROPHILIC HEAD and LIPOPHILIC TAIL
Hydrophilic Head âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Attracted to water
Lipophilic Tail âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Attracted to dirts and oils
Acid Balanced Shampoo âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€pH of 4.5-5.5
Jheri Redding âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€first to introduce pH balanced shampoo in the 1960s
Clarifying Shampoo âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€acidic base to cut through buildup on the hair strand
Humectants âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Most conditioners carry this. Promote retention of moisture
Instant conditioners âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€remain on the hair 1-5 minutes
Protein Conditoners âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€brown liquids and penetrate into the cortex to temporarily improve
porosity and increase elasticity
Infraed Lamps âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€may be used with hair treatments and scalp tonics for 5 minutes
High Frequency Unit âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€used to normalize oily scalp conditioners! Also never should be used
with tonics that contain alcohol
Base Control âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€position of the rod in relation to its base section
croquignole perm wrap âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€wrapped perpendicular to the scalp starting with the ends
Spiral Perm Wrap âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Wound from the ends to scalp and rods hang vertical
Concave Rods âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€most common and have a smaller center circumference
Straight Rods âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€uniform circumference
Alkaline Permanent âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€softens and swell the hair which raises the cuticle. Developed in 1941
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€main ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms
Alkaline Waves ( COLD WAVES) âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€process at room temp
Acid Perms âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Exothermic perms âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€reaction that causes heat. contains hydrogen peroxide
Endothermic Perms âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€activated by outside heat source. True Acid perms are endothermic
Disulfide Bonds âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€if too many are broken the hair will become over processed and have a weak
curl
What is the main ingredient in a neutralizer âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Hydrogen Peroxide
Do not shampoo hair âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€48 hours after a perm
Cuticle âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€outer most layer of the hair
Cortex âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€middle layer of the hair where all chemical processes take place
Melanin âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Natural pigment located in the cortex
Peptide Bonds âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€called end bonds link together to form polypeptide chains. Should not be
broken.
What are the three side bonds? âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Disulfide, Salt,Hydrogen, Side/Cross
Disulfide Bonds âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€strognest. Must be broken when perming or relaxing the hair
Salt bonds âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Weak physical side bonds that are easily broken by changes in pH
Hydrogen Bonds âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€broken by water or heat
EX: Wet Set
Hair Texture âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Diameter of a single strand
Hair Density âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€number of strands of hair are on the head
Hair Porosity âœâ€Ã¢Å“â€Absorb mositureÂÂ